Toys to Crochet by Claire Garland

Published by: Potter Craft (Random House)

Available: December 11, 2007

So far, my book reviews have been mainly about knitting. That’s partly because that’s what the publishers are sending me, and partly because I do a lot of knitting.

I also crochet. Crochet has its place, but it creates a fabric very different from knitting, and isn’t as often applicable to what I want to create.

One thing crochet can do very well, though, is create three dimensional shapes. You’re only working with one live stitch at a time, and you can move in any direction you want at any moment.

Toys to Crochet presents patterns for easy to make, quick to finish, crocheted toys. These are not high art, but they are cute, and made with child’s play in mind.

How Does It Look?

One of the points I evaluate about any craft book is the visual appeal of the projects themselves. Are they attractive? Are the proportions pleasing to the eye? Is the technique executed in a way that doesn’t detract from the finished product?

I wish I could say that Toys to Crochet passed all these tests for me, but the truth is, I found more than half the projects visually unattractive. Whether poorly proportioned, or stitched so large and loose that the stuffing shows through, a lot of this book doesn’t work for me.

In some cases it was the choice of yarn and gauge - very large stitches in a fairly small project make for a grainy, low-resolution look. Take these Chunky Building Blocks, for example. The samples in the photograph seem to be made with different weights of yarn, to obtain different finished sizes. At only 6 stitches wide on each side, the blocks will work up quickly. But no matter what yarn size used, you wind up with a rough looking shape that more closely resembles a slightly deflated ball than a block.

I find Molly the Mermaid to be one of the better dolls in the book. But look at that flat tail - she looks like she was run over by a steamroller. Why wasn’t the top of the tail stuffed? It’s worked in the round, so there’s ample space inside. Lightly stuffing the tail would give it some body, while still leaving her supple and flexible for swimming the imaginary oceans.

Most of the dolls in Toys to Crochet are of the long-leggedy, tentacle-like arm variety that seems popular right now.* I have to say that’s a style that doesn’t appeal to me - I like my dolls to have more realistic proportions, and to have limbs that look like they could be functional if the doll came to life.

This Basic Bear is a good example. The head is a good shape, the ears well proportioned. The body works. But then the arms start off stringy and go way long, and the legs just seem to go on forever. I think they may even be longer than the head and body combined.

Add the large size of the stitches relative to the overall size of the bear, and the design loses all appeal for me.

What Did Work?

Some of the designs work better than others. The pigs on the cover of the book, for instance. Here are a few others that I liked:

Mama Horse and Foal - Cute, knobby-kneed baby and a hand puppet for mama.

Clover Cow and Calf - Baby looked wonky to me here, until I got an image in my head of a newborn calf trying to stand up. Then it felt like the artist perfectly captured that feeling.

Mama Duck and Pom-Pom Chick - I think this may be one of the best designs in the book. Although Mama suffers from SLLS - Stringy Long Leg Syndrome - her body is well proportioned, and I love the way her neck curves as she tends to her baby. I’d definitely stitch her with way less leg. Maybe even none, and attach the webbed feet directly under her.

About the Instructions

I’ve almost never used a written pattern for crochet. Most of what I’ve done has been either made up as I went, or worked from well-defined and common modules like Granny Squares.

I decided that the best way, then, for me to evaluate the patterns in Toys to Crochet would be to actually Crochet a Toy. What a concept, huh?

I chose a pattern that I found both amusing and reasonably proportioned, and that I could give as a Christmas gift. My father likes lobster, and I was stuck for what to give him this year, so I wound up making Larry the Lobster.

Larry the Lobster

The original Larry photographed in the book uses a bulky weight yarn (Lobster Pot Bulky) and a size N (10 mm) hook. I didn’t like how much of the polyfill stuffing showed through the stitches. And this was going to have to be a stash-buster. What I wound up using was Bernat Ping-Pong yarn in a brown color, and a size K (6.5 mm) hook.

Ping-Pong is a novelty yarn in a bulky weight. There is a strand plied in with little puffy balls of a lighter shade of the overall yarn color - in this case, brown - and another of an eyelash-like, tinsely material that gives a short fuzz and a shine to the fabric.

I found the instructions fairly easy to follow, only running into one slight delay as I tried to figure out what was meant by working a single crochet “in top of each sc around.” This wasn’t explained anywhere in the book, and it baffled me. After all, each single crochet is worked under both threads at the top of the stitch, right? So what was meant by in the top? I eventually puzzled out that they meant to work in the back loop at the top, rather than under both front and back together.

In the end, I had what passes for a reasonable looking lobster, glistening with the tinsel, and spotty and brown like an uncooked lobster fresh from the bottom of the ocean. I think I did miscount the rounds on one of his claws, making it shorter than the other, but that’s actually a life-like detail. Many lobsters wind up with mis-matched claws when they lose one in a battle and it has to re-grow.

Bottom Line

Toys to Crochet is my first real exposure to a crochet project book. While I find many of the designs personally unappealing, others may like the quirky proportions and characters. There’s no denying that these funky-looking dolls have personality!

The instructions are reasonable well-written, with few omissions. It should be fairly easy for even a relative beginner to successfully - and quickly - create toys from this book, and have them come out looking like the photos. The projects would also be easy to modify for personal tastes, as I might do with Mama Duck’s long, dangly legs.

The projects will work up fast enough that you could still, at this late date, pick up a copy at your local bookstore, and make some gifts in time for Christmas.

In the end, it’s not a complete hit - but there’s enough here to have me wanting to make more projects from this book, and to consider modifying others. I’d recommend Toys to Crochet as a worthy addition to a fiber craft library.

Related Links:

• Publisher’s site: Toys to Crochet at Random House
• Purchase at Amazon: Toys to Crochet

* I just discovered, in researching links for this review, why those spindly-legged, tentacle-armed dolls struck me as so popular. It’s because several prominent books lately have featured them - Knitted Babes, and Toys to Sew - and they’re all by the same author as Toys to Crochet, Claire Garland! (I even own a copy of Toys to Sew already, won in a blog contest.) I’d say that’s a testament to the popularity of both Ms. Garland’s books and design sense!

Posted: December 11th, 2007 under Crafts.
Comments: 2

The Yarn Lover’s Guide to Hand Dyeing
by Linda La Belle

Published by: Potter Craft (Random House)

Available: November 13, 2007

I’ve been sitting on this book review for a couple of weeks now, trying to decide what to say.

I have been eagerly awaiting The Yarn Lover’s Guide to Hand Dyeing for some time. I’ve dabbled a little in hand dyeing myself, on a very amateur level, using Kool-Aid and food colors. To have a book that would help me explore the wider world of hand dye options and processes would be marvelous.

I sat down a few days before the release of this title to go through my review copy. I was generally pleased with what I saw. The book begins with a section covering techniques, dyes, types of yarn, safety, color theory, and more. Everything you’d need to know.

At least, that’s what I thought.

Chapter one, “unsweetened kool-aid and food coloring,” promises to be an easy start in the concept of dyeing. The introductory text talks about how simple and safe it is, how you can do it with your children as a fun project. And it specifically states, “The only other ingredient you need is distilled white vinegar.”

Why, then, when I turned to the next page, does the very first recipe call for Synthrapol? And what is Synthrapol?

I flipped back to the front of the book, thinking I had missed a section. Nothing there. I scoured the index. No mention of Synthrapol. Puzzled, I went back to the dye recipes, and continued reading through the book.

Every recipe is presented clearly, with a careful listing of materials, and good instructions for how dye is applied with the method used. Each recipe is followed by a knitting pattern designed to highlight the colors and features of the dye technique.

But every recipe also called for one or more chemicals that were not explained anywhere in the book. Synthrapol, Polycell, urea. For those experienced with the world of hand dyeing, these may be familiar substances, but for a newbie? Not so much.

Before posting a review, I decided to give my contact at Potter Craft a chance to comment. Here’s the reply I received:

Jenny,

Once again, your eagle-eye has come in handy. We’ve checked with the author, Linda, and she confirmed that Synthrapol is a mild soap that is used to remove excess dye. When used in the presoak it helps to remove the spinning grease that is on the yarn/fiber, and when used in the washing/rinsing process the Synthrapol suspends the excess dye and carries it from the yarn/fiber.

We will add this to the front matter of the book for reprints and apoligize for the omission! I don’t know how we all missed that. A quick google search does yield a site that says it’s a “must have” for dyers and other helpful information.

The question of the Polycell and urea had not yet been addressed, so I wrote once again, receiving this response:

We will be adding a new section to the book in reprints called “The Chemicals”. In the meantime, here is the missing info:

Polycell is a wallpaper paste that contains Sodium Alginate, a natural thickener made from seaweed. The stock paste can be stored in the refrigerator for several months. Thickeners such as Polycell, Sodium Alginate, Gum Tragacanth and Jacquard SuperClear are added to the dyestock. Thickening the dyestock slows the spreading of the dye, giving you more control while you are painting on the yarn. When the Polycell is used in the Ashford Cold Pad method of dyeing the “padding” supports the dye, prevents it from drying out and extends teh fixing time.

Urea is a humectant–it attracts moisture from the air, helping to keep the fiber damp longer. The dye is suspended allowing for a greater reaction time for the dye to fix. It can be used in conjunction with a thickener when painting on the yarn with Procion dyes.

At this point, I felt a little lost with regards to writing my usual full review of the book. The book I had in my hand, hardbound, fully finished, and ready to hit the bookstore shelves, was mostly well written, with well-explained projects, interesting interviews with people who are in the business of selling hand dyed yarns, and otherwise good information about the techniques. But no book about hand dyeing yarn could really be considered complete without an explanation of the chemicals involved in the process, could it?

You see my dilemma, I’m sure.

Potter Craft has promised that future printings of The Yarn Lover’s Guide to Hand Dyeing will contain the information that is missing from this one. That’s a good and appropriate response on their part. (I won’t address the issue of how the final copy could have been signed off on without the chemical information.)

In the meantime, they’ve got thousands of copies of The Yarn Lover’s Guide to Hand Dyeing out there that are missing data about the chemicals used. Are they totally worthless?

Not totally. A person well versed in fiber work, even if they’ve never dyed yarn, will be able to find the missing information with a few quick searches at Google. Aside from this known error, the book does cover its subject fairly well, considering we’re presented with how-to’s for seven different types of dyes, using six different application methods.

The reader who should be cautious about the current printing of this book is the newbie dyer, especially if they’re not familiar with the fiber resources on the Internet. These are the folks who will eagerly read, pick out a project to make, and then, stumped by the unexplained chemicals, will set the book aside and decide that dyeing must be harder than they thought if it’s such a mystery.

My Recommendations

Experienced fiber artists, or anyone comfortable with researching the chemicals on their own, by all means get this book in the current printing. You’ll be able to make up for the missing information with your Google-fu.

New dyers - if you’re reading here, you’re forewarned, and can prepare yourself with a search or two. I’ll give links at the end of this article, too.

If you were hoping to give this as a gift to someone who will be totally new to dyeing - either find and print out the missing information for them, or consider waiting until a future printing comes out.

Related Links:

• Publisher’s Site: The Yarn Lover’s Guide to Hand Dyeing at Random House
• Purchase at Amazon: The Yarn Lover’s Guide to Hand Dyeing
• Author’s Site: The Yarn Tree

About the Chemicals:

• Synthrapol
• Urea
• Polycell
  

Posted: November 26th, 2007 under Crafts.
Comments: 3

Winter is coming soon, and I have a problem.

I haven’t had a proper winter coat in a couple of years.

For a long, long time, I wore a leather jacket that I found at an incredible sale at Lane Bryant. A $230 jacket, for something like $60. Classic bomber style, and a little large for me at the time, but come on! Such a deal!

That was about 1991. I loved it to pieces - literally. It was comfortable, and warm enough for me, and served its purpose well.

I finally decided, a little over a year ago, that it was time to retire it. The leather itself was starting to shred in places, the lining had torn out years ago. The knitted cuffs were unraveling.

Last year, I got by with a polar fleece jacket I’d purchased a while back at a Burlington Coat Factory. But it was always a tight fit, and I’ve gained weight since buying it. Add the \/\/\zap!\/\/\ factor of perpetual static electricity generated by polar fleece, and I just don’t consider it an option any more.

So, here’s the problem. I’m a big girl. Even local shops that have plus sizes, don’t have my size - they stop a little short. I’m also hard to please, style-wise - I tend to think most fashion trends look pretty bad. I want a good, basic, functional coat, and if possible, one in a style that I actually like.

Okay, I’m a knitter. What can I do that will work, and be fairly quick?

Enter the Interweave Press book, Knit Kimono, by Vicki Square. This is not a review copy - I actually chose to buy the book from Amazon myself. I’ve been fond of some of Vicki’s other Interweave books - Folk Hats and Folk Bags, for instance - and I’m passionate about Japanese design.

There are 18 patterns for jackets, vests, and kimono in this book, all based on traditional styles. And all knitted. Some of them are even large enough already to accommodate my body, without modification! And those that aren’t will be easily altered, since the essence of kimono is that they’re made from rectangles. How hard would it be, then, to simply add a little width to the parts? Not very!

The issue at hand, then, is a coat for myself. Can I answer that with a kimono? I think so! I’ve got a couple of prime candidates in mind. Sorry for the flare in the photos, I couldn’t take them without flash on this gray, rainy day.

Noragi

Based on a field worker’s garment, this is built from simple garter stitch rectangles. The yarn called for is Plymouth Linen Isle, a cotton/rayon/linen blend, but I could probably use any worsted weight yarn that will give a nice hand to the finished fabric.

Cons:

• The size of the garment in the pattern finishes with a 50″ measurement at the chest. This is at least 8 or 9 inches narrower than what I need.
• The sleeves as designed are impractical for a utilitarian winter coat.*
• Miles of garter stitch could be boring.

Pros:

• The construction of the garment is simple rectangles. It will be easy to add the width that I need without harming the style of the coat.
• I could replace the sleeves with a tapered shape more suitable for a coat.
• Miles of garter stitch is perfect mindless knitting for television watching, or Knitting In Public.
• Garter stitch also can be finished without absolutely requiring blocking.

Water & Sky

Water & Sky was inspired by the way that “Japanese architecture harmonizes with the environment, weather, and geography.” Vicki describes the yarn she chose (Classic Elite Fame, a rayon silk blend) as “a blend of pale natural colors that represent the reflection of sunlight as water trickles over a rocky streambed.” The bottom edges have an open-work, ripply stitch pattern to further evoke the sense of water, while the bulk of the garment is knit in stockinette stitch.

This is a roomy piece - the circumference measures as about 73 1/2 inches! That would be perfect for layering. The sleeves are a more practical design for a winter coat, too.

It’s a bit long, though - 42″ shoulder to hem. The model wearing it in other photographs shows it coming down to her knees. I’d probably shorten it.

Cons:

• Miles upon miles of stockinette stitch.
• Uses over twice as much yarn as the Noragi.
• Specialty stitch pattern at hem, coupled with short row shaping to induce curves, takes the beginning of each front piece and the back out of the realm of mindless knitting.
• Blocking will be absolutely essential to prevent curling of the large stockinette pieces.
• Garment is too long as designed. Might even be too wide!

Pros:

• The style of the Water & Sky has somewhat more flare, with the curved hems and the rippling stitch pattern at the hems.
• Altering length is even a little easier than altering width. Just stop knitting sooner.
• After the fancy stitchwork at the hems, this is miles of stockinette stitch. But if I shorten it, not as many miles. The stockinette stitch portions also take this back into the world of mindless knitting, at least for portions big enough to count.
• Garment as designed could be layered for extra warmth.
• Sleeves are perfect style - in fact, if I do the Noragi after all, I’ll probably steal these sleeves!

Of course, anyone who has read here for a while knows that I would be knitting either of these choices in different colors than the designer did. They’re beautiful, mind you, just not me.

Neither garment has provisions for buttons, but it would be easy to either add a frog-type closure, or use a pin. Or just wear them open - I seldom fasten my winter coats anyway.

What will I decide? That may be influenced by the choices of yarn I can find. I doubt I can afford to make these in either of the yarns called for, so substitutions will be in order. Using a wool or wool blend will be warmer anyhow. I’m planning to stop by my LYS today and see what I can come up with. She’ll be having her annual Anniversary Sale a week from Saturday, too, and all yarns will be 20% off that day - maybe if I plan right, this project won’t have to cost much!

Stay tuned for more - I’ll be sure to report on developments as they arise!

As for my overall opinion of the book - let’s just say that in the end, I want to knit all 18 designs offered here. They’re just that gorgeous!

Related Links:

• Interweave Press: Knit Kimono by Vicki Square
• Corrections to Book: Knit Kimono Corrections at Interweave Press
• Buy at Amazon.com: Knit Kimono by Vicki Square

*I have to admit, though - the more I look at the classic kimono-style sleeves on the Noragi, the more I like them anyway…hmm.

Posted: November 15th, 2007 under Crafts.
Comments: none

My most recent order arrived from Amazon yesterday. I first saw this book over at Grumperina’s blog; she, in turn, had learned about it at the purl bee. It’s Knitting New Scarves: 27 Distinctly Modern Designs, and I’m finding it endlessly fascinating.

I haven’t studied the details of this book in as much depth as I normally do for a review, so let’s call this a mini-review. I will tell you this - even with the quick look I’ve had, I highly recommend this for any knitter who wants to stretch their imagination, and learn to take their knitting in new directions.

Knitting New Scarves: 27 Distinctly Modern Designs

Publisher: Stewart, Tabori & Chang (Harry N. Abrams, Inc.)

Acquired by: online purchase from Amazon.com

Purchase Price: $14.93

Cover Price: $21.95

The author and designer, Lynne Barr, has done the sort of thing that always makes my toes tingle. Diving in headfirst, she took the basic techniques of knits and purls, and then threw the rules out the window. She uses dpns, circular and flat knitting, short rows, picking up stitches, and more, in unconventional ways to create three-dimensional scarves that really wow me.

I am already itching to cast on for a large number of the patterns in this book. Some of them would be great as stash-busters, some simply manipulate the spatial reality of knitting in such tantalizing ways that I can’t wait to see these twists, turns, and shapes coming from my needles.

Here’s a small sampling of the many designs that caught my eye. As always, click on any image for a larger view.

That last scarf shows that there are even patterns for the rawest of new knitters here - it’s a simple garter stitch scarf that derives its curves from short rows. Some of the other patterns involve using double point needles in ways I never dreamed of - not just knitting around in a circle, but knitting to create lobes and wings and flaps. The wavy scarf is entirely created by knitting a flat tube with larger needls on one side, smaller on the other - then swapping the sizes at regular intervals.

I am unbelievably excited by this book, and eager to dig in. I love the idea of sculptural knitting, and I want to master these techniques so I can then play with them myself. The only question that remains - where to begin? There are 27 patterns in this book, and I think I want to knit every one of them!

Related Links:

• Listing at Stewart, Tabori & Chang (Harry N. Abrams): Knitting New Scarves
• Buy at Amazon: Knitting New Scarves, 27 Distinctly Modern Designs
• (added 11-12-07) Knitalong Blog: Knitting New Scarves Knitalong
• (added 11-12-07) Publisher’s Blog: STC Craft/Melanie Falick Books

Posted: November 2nd, 2007 under Crafts.
Comments: 2

The Knitter’s Book of Yarn by Clara Parkes

Published by: Potter Craft (Random House)

Acquired by: Free copy from Publisher

List Price: $30.00

Available: Oct. 16, 2007

Every time I sit down to examine a book or product for review, it’s my profound hope that I’m about to make a great discovery. Sometimes, I am at least delighted with the find. Occasionally, I am bitterly disappointed.

I am very pleased to say that today’s review is about a great discovery. If you are a knitter, and you want to better understand what your yarn is, why it behaves the way it does, and how best to show it off, The Knitter’s Book of Yarn is a must-have for your library.

Disclaimer

First, though, a disclaimer - though I have been a knitter for almost 40 years; and have been reading (and writing) knit blogs for nearly 3 years; and likewise, have been using online resources for knitting information over those same 3 years; still, I was completely ignorant of the resource created by Clara Parkes known as Knitter’s Review.

If Knitter’s Review is new to you, briefly put, it’s a weekly, online magazine format, which presents how-to articles, as well as reviews and news about knitting books, tools, and especially, yarns. I don’t think there’s anywhere else on the web that offers such in-depth examinations of different yarns, including swatching results, blocking data, how they hold up to washing, and more.

The Book

Now, Clara has taken the passion for yarn that is apparent in her online yarn reviews, and put it all into The Knitter’s Book of Yarn: The Ultimate Guide to Choosing, Using, and Enjoying Yarn. This is the reference book we knitter’s have needed for years.

The knitter is taught everything about yarn, from what the properties of fibers from the different sources (protein, cellulose, etc.) might be, to how they are used in a yarn, to what the knitted results tend to be like. Clara explains how we should evaluate a yarn before buying - what qualities to look for, and how to see them. For instance, I never knew about guard hairs in cashmere. Clara not only explains their presence, but tells us how to see them in the finished yarn, and what it means for the quality of the yarn.

I’ve only read word for word up to page 35, and I think I know more about yarn now than I’ve managed to learn by trial and error in 40 years of knitting.

Section 1 covers Fiber Foundations - the sources and types of fiber. In Section 2, Clara explains the various things that happen to those fibers as they become yarn - from being processed in Mills and Microspinneries, to various methods of dyeing. We’re also taught about some of the ways we can find some of the rare, one-of-a-kind yarns, by seeking out local fiber farms and festivals.

The largest part of the book is devoted to Section 3, Ply Me a River. Here, we not only learn about the properties of different plies of yarn - single, two-ply, chenilles. We are also offered 40 patterns for knitting, each one designed carefully to make the best use of the yarn it’s paired with.

The final section is called Putting It All Together. Here, we find even more valuable information. How to care for and wash all the fiber types discussed in the book. How to remove odors from yarn. What WPI (wraps per inch) means, and how to apply that number, complete with a chart for converting it to a meaningful understanding of the weight of the yarn. An explanation of the Craft Yarn Council of America’s Standard Yarn Weight System. A guide to abbreviations and techniques; a list of online resources for yarn and notions.

If you want to learn more, Clara has included a guide to Recommended Reading that is more than just a simple list of book titles - she discusses each book in brief, including why she will turn to it and what it can teach us.

The Patterns

Although the patterns aren’t the sole reason for buying this book, they don’t hurt its quality a bit. Aside from Clara herself, there were sixteen other designers who contributed to The Knitter’s Book of Yarn. Among them are such instantly recognizable names as Norah Gaughan, Cat Bordhi, and Teva Durham. Other names may be known more from their blogs - for instance, SABLE stasher Amy King of www.spunkyeclectic.com.

I mean that last statement. While I might not be interested in knitting every one of these forty patterns, I didn’t find a single Ugh in the book. Not one. When was the last time we could say that?

The projects run the gamut from home decor, to pet toys, to garments and bags. There is lace, cables, colorwork, felting, and even plain old stockinette. There are items both simple and complex here, so knitters of every skill level should feel satisfied.

Each pattern begins with a listing of materials, measurements, and gauge. Specific yarns were used, and are called out by brand and color number. Because this is The Knitter’s Book of Yarn, we are also told exact fiber content, length, and weight of the skeins, as well as specific information as to what to choose if we want to substitute.

Artyarns Silk Rhapsody (70% mohair, 30% silk; 260 yards [238m]/100g) 1 skein #RH123. If substituting, use 260 yds (238m) of 2-ply worsted-weight yarn, preferably a yarn with shimmer and drape.

Even the visual properties and the hand of the yarn are mentioned, making for a great chance of success for the knitter who picks an alternative yarn.

A paragraph or two at the start of the instructions explains the choice of yarn, and what properties in that yarn influenced the design of the pattern. The instructions themselves are to the point, but inclusive of everything a knitter needs to be told to complete the object.

If you’ve read my other book reviews, you probably know that by now, I’ve usually mentioned the issue of garment sizes. Not this time, though! That’s how good this book is - I like it a lot, and don’t care if the sweaters will fit me as written. And with the patterns including so many items that aren’t fitted garments, there’s a lot to work with here regardless.

It’s All Good

Seriously. Still, here are a few of my favorite projects from the book. As always, click through the picture to see a larger image.

Cabled Tea Cozy designed by Jennifer Hagan

Knit from Malabrigo, you could also use any single-ply worsted-weight yarn. The quality of the Malabrigo being displayed here is how a single-ply yarn will show a sculptural knit such as cables with good definition and stich clarity, yet still have a soft look.

Rhinebeck Hat and Mitts by Shelia January

Knit with a three-ply yarn (Spirit Trail Fiberworks Bluefaced Leicester), this project shows the effective use of a solid color together with a variegated yarn in Fair Isle knitting.

Cabled Swing Cardi by Norah Gaughan

I love the lines of this sweater - I can imagine it would flatter almost any figure. It’s designed for bust sizes up to 54″ closed, but there’s enough overlap there I believe I could make it work for me with very little modification. Just one change I think I’d make - I’d add a second button, at the top of that collar end on the right front.

The original model shown here was knit from Berroco Ultra Alpaca, though you could use any 3-ply worsted weight yarn.

Wavy Socks by Amy King

I like the soft waves of cabling in these socks. I can imagine these moving through the knit blog world like a tidal wave. Expect to see lots of Wavy Socks online in the coming months. The yarn used for the book was Karabella Aurora 4, but it’s suggested you could use any multistrand DK-weight yarn instead.

A Sturdy Book

The Knitter’s Book of Yarn is destined to be a staple in every knitter’s library. The designers of the book knew this, and planned for a book that will be pulled off the shelf and referred to frequently. The covers are sturdy hardbound, with a matte finish. The pages are made of a heavy matte paperstock, just shy of cardstock. Though not spiral bound, the book lies fairly flat when opened on a table.

A lot of thought went into the creation of this book, and it shows. Clara Parkes has clearly, through her work at Knitter’s Review and her own knitting, been preparing to write this book for many years. The designers she’s gathered together have put their hearts and souls into creating beautiful projects that make full use of the yarns’ best qualities.

I am honored to have The Knitter’s Book of Yarn in my library. I hope it stays in print for a long, long time!

Related Links:

• Publisher’s site: The Knitter’s Book of Yarn at Random House
• Purchase at Amazon: The Knitter’s Book of Yarn
• Author’s site: Knitter’s Review
• Designer’s blog: Jennifer Hagan, figknits
• Designer’s blog: Shelia January, Let’s Talk Stash
• Designer’s site: Amy King, Spunky Eclectic

Posted: October 16th, 2007 under Crafts.
Comments: none

Hot on the heels of yesterday’s review of Inspired Fair Isle Knits, I’ve had some communication with the Marketing Manager for Potter Craft, the publisher of the book:

Thanks for your review. We always strive to have our books void of mistakes, but when some get through the cracks we correct them in future printings. If you have any specific correction suggestions or if you want to point me to the page numbers, we will correct it in future printings and post the correction on PotterCraft.com

I replied promptly with a detailed list of the issues I had found while reviewing the book, and soon after I had this response:

Thank you very much for pointing out these errors! We will fix them in the next printing. Also, your readers may want to know that all our corrections live here:

http://www.randomhouse.com/crown/pottercraft/errata/index.html

and they are welcome to e-mail us with any mistakes they see in our books, or if they suspect there’s a problem with a pattern. Our authors are always quick to supply us with a correction which we post here.

Isn’t it nice when the world works as it should? I was very pleased to hear all this, because you know, the book wasn’t bad, really. As I mentioned in my review, the writing was quite good, the information was very inclusive of all the knitter would need to know. My only quibbles were with the designs themselves, which is a matter of personal taste, and the editorial errors I caught, which made the book look unprofessional.

The message here is, don’t be afraid to tell someone if you think their efforts fall short of the mark they intended! Publishers aren’t trying to put out bad books - they genuinely want to be proud of their product. Speak up, politely, and let them know!

Related Links:

• Original Review by Jen: Inspired Fair Isle Knits
• Potter Craft Errata Page

Posted: October 3rd, 2007 under Crafts.
Comments: none

Inspired Fair Isle Knits by Fiona Ellis

Published by: Potter Craft (Random House)

Acquired by: Free copy from Publisher

List Price: $35.00

Available: Oct. 2, 2007

Edited to add: Please see link at end of article for the publisher’s response to this review!

Knitwear designer Fiona Ellis has established a style that borrows from traditional knitting techniques, takes inspiration from nature, then turns both on their ears for a modern interpretation of classic designs. Her new book, Inspired Fair Isle Knits, is no exception.

Following her 2006 title, Inspired Cable Knits, Ellis has now turned her attention to the traditional techniques and motifs of Fair Isle knitting. Named for a small island in the Shetlands, north of Scotland, where it originated, Fair Isle knitting is a multi-colored technique, usually using two colors in a single row of knitting. The color not in use for the current stitch is carried at the back of the work until it is needed further down the row.

Traditionally, in such a cold place on the North Sea, Fair Isle knitting is used to make warm sweaters to brave the cold ocean winds and winter weather. As Ellis explains in her introduction, she has re-interpreted Fair Isle knitting for a modern design sense by playing with traditional elements of Fair Isle design, including placement of the patterning, use of color, symmetry, and types of garments.

In Inspired Cable Knits, Ellis used the themes of change, nature, energy, and time to gather her designs. This time, the themes are the four natural elements - water, air, fire, and earth. In each section, pieces are shown for nearly every season of the year, from turtleneck sweaters to halter tops, with a few styles for children thrown in.

But does the book measure up to its promise? I’m not sure. I found it to be well written, but there were many problems that give me pause about recommending it. Let me tell you what I found, and see what you think.

First things first…

Sizing

Sizes of the finished garments are givein as XS - 3X (though not all go that small or large); finished chest measurements for women range from 32″ (XS) to 54″ (2X). I find the measurements confusing, though, without an indication of the real body chest measurement they’re intended to fit.

The XS measurements for women, for instance, range from 32 to 35 inches. S ranges from 32 - 39 inches. Those garments with an upper size of 2X measure from 46 to 54 inches. And the 3 items for women that have an upper size of 3X have measurements from 49 1/2 to 53 inches.

I found this confusing. No explanation of the ease of any garment is given, so it’s difficult to know what size you should knit. Is a 3X that’s 53 inches really meant to be smaller than a 2X that measures 54 inches? Your guess is as good as mine.

In the front sections of the book, choosing a size is addressed. The suggestion given is to measure a garment that fits you well, then compare it, not to the chest measurements and sizes listed, but to the schematic shown alongside the instructions. That will work for most, but without a discussion of the ease designed into the garments, you might have trouble getting a fit similar to that shown in the book.

The Effort is There

There is a strong effort to help the knitter, whatever their level of experience, succeed. The front of the book includes sections covering, at least in brief, such topics as stranding the colors as you knit, working in the round, and even setting in zippers - a topic that I’ve faulted other books for not including.

Each pattern includes, after the Materials list and Gauge, a special note calling out any special techniques required, with a pointer to the page that section can be found on. For example, the Classic Cardigan with Felted Pockets (p. 108), reads, “REFER TO TECHNIQUES ON PAGE 18 FOR: Felting, Short Rows, Single Crochet, 3-Needle Bind-Off.“

Information like that means that even a beginner - so long as they actually read through the instructions - will have a better chance of completing a project well. Sure, some of the how-to explanations are very short, but at least the knitter has something to start from, which is more than many books include.

The instructions are carefully written, too. Anytime that the nature of the piece you’re knitting changes - for instance, when you need to begin shaping a section - it’s called out as a new paragraph, with a title in an alternate text color. Pay attention, and you’re less likely to whip out ten rows of stockinette past that point.

Yarns

No two projects in this book use yarns from the same company - no, wait. There are some yarns used by at least two projects, but of the 20 items shown, there are at least 16 different brands and labels of yarn called for. If you want to make substitutions, information about yardage and weight is given at the pattern, and also in a 2-page spread at the back dedicated to the yarn specifications. There is also a full guide to vendors from which the yarns used can be purchased.

Editorial Flaws

There were a number of places that showed flaws in the editorial process. The author’s “A Last Word” at the end of the book has several errors, both missing words as well as words out of place.

Finished chest measurements are given for all garments, which is a good thing. But there’s an inconsistency - on some patterns, fractional measurements are given as decimals. On others, they’re shown as actual fractions. Very unprofessional.

And then there’s this photo:

The blur that you see is not from my poor camera skills. That is actually in the photo that was selected for publication in this finished, hardcover book. Fortunately, it’s not the primary image for this particular sweater. But why was it included? Were they that desperate for a photo that showed the hood up?

Errors like these are jarring to me, lifting me out of the enjoyment of the book, and making it difficult for me to think anything but, “goodness, this was poorly put together.”

Worth it?

So, the book is flawed. Editorial errors distract the reader’s eye, and detract from the overall quality. Still, Ellis clearly made an effort to be very inclusive of the information that the knitter would need to complete her designs.

Let’s see some pictures of a few of them, and you can decide for yourself if it’s worth pursuing this book - in spite of the flaws.

The Designs

(As usual, please click on any photo to get a larger image.)

Waves

I think this sweater is way too large for the model. But I like the unusual take on a classic rope cable - obviously the continuing influence of Ellis’ previous book. I’m not so sure that the Fair Isle yoke looks like it goes with the cabled sleeves and body, however.

Drifting

A cute sweater for a child, this raglan has buttons up both front raglan seams. Of course, my regular readers may recognize that the colors are influencing my opinion here - these are among my favorites.

Whisper

This is listed as a turtleneck, and normally I have a strong aversion to anything close around my neck. But clearly, this collar isn’t close fitting. I think that I could actually wear this, if I could size it up for my body. I like the cute detailing of lace at the collar and cuff.

The only thing is - and this isn’t good for a book on Fair Isle knitting - I think this design would work better without the sections of Fair Isle patterning. They distract the eye from the lacy details.

Sunkissed

One of the younger styles in the book. If I had the body for it, I’d wear this, though maybe not in these colors. This is knit in Young Touch Cotton DK yarn by Estelle Designs, so I’ll bet it’s comfortable to wear.

Kindle

This scarf is knit in the round in a sportweight alpaca yarn. At 9″ across, it’s wider than I’d care for myself. What caught my eye, though, was the fringe detailing. Each end of the scarf includes a row of eyelets, through which a single, long I-cord is threaded. The cord is stitched in place to keep the fringe loops from sliding. I might not want to knit the scarf, but I thought the fringe was clever.

The Huh?

Sway

This Huh? is for the pose. The model looks like she just peed her pants, and is trying to keep the puddle from getting bigger. I think they’re trying to show off the flirty pleated cuffs, but in the process, her posture and arm position almost completely hide the sweater.

Peat

The Huh? in this case is for the choice of yarn in the body of the men’s sweater. What is the woman at the front thinking? “Hey, I didn’t do the laundry, he did. And I told him to check the pockets for kleenex first! But does he ever listen?”

Bottom Line

I really wanted to like this book. There was clearly a serious effort to include everything the knitter would need to know to be able to complete the projects, something many books fall short on. But few of the designs caught my eye favorably. Of those that did, it was usually something other than the Fair Isle details that I liked about them - not good when Fair Isle is supposedly the point of the book.

Much of the photography distracts from and hides details of the garments. The editorial errors distract from the quality of the copy.

The copy itself is actually fairly good. What we’re left with is a well written book of knitting information and instructions, but with designs that don’t, well, inspire me. Add the poor copyediting and the inconsistent quality of the photography, and I find myself disappointed.

Maybe Fiona Ellis’ designs aren’t to my taste. But I like the quality of her writing, and I think her books could be better. I hope she keeps trying - I’d like to see where she goes.

Related Links:

• Publisher’s site: Inspired Fair Isle Knits at Random House
• Author’s site: Fiona Ellis Online
• Purchase at Amazon: Inspired Fair Isle Knits
• ETA 10-03-07 - Publisher’s Response to this Review: Inspired Fair Isle Knits - The Publisher Responds

Posted: October 2nd, 2007 under Crafts.
Comments: none

Kaffe Knits Again by Kaffe Fassett

Published by: Potter Craft (Random House)

Acquired by: Free copy from Publisher

List Price: $35.00

Available: Oct. 2, 2007

I come to this book with a bit of a disadvantage. I am familiar with the general style of Kaffe Fassett’s designs for knitting. But I have never owned, nor had access to, any of his books.

The one thing I do know is that Kaffe Fassett is known for color. Rich, joyous, color. His inspirations often come from paintings, tapestries, fabrics, and other antique sources.

His new book, Kaffe Knits Again, is typical Kaffe Fassett. The colors and visual textures are like a wedding cake to someone used to eating Ho-Ho’s.

Kaffe Redux

The 24 designs presented here are not completely new. They are actually some of Kaffe’s older designs, re-invented, re-imagined, and updated for this publication. If you’re familiar with his previous work, then, much of the material in this book may seem familiar to you.

As Kaffe explains in the introduction, he has always been

disappointed when [his designs] are dismissed by even experienced knitters as too difficult to attempt. With this book, I am giving all nervous knitters the opportunity to try out color knitting. Using current Rowan yarns, I’ve reinterpreted some of my favorite patterns from years past that deserve a second chance.

Many of the patterns have been transformed from coats and sweaters into easier projects like scarves, throws, shawls, or cushions…There are several simple two-color-a-row designs as well as more challenging fare.

And there we have the premise of this book - not just a re-hashing of old designs into something newly marketable, but a reinterpretation to make them more accessible to more knitters.

Who’s the Book For?

Kaffe Knits Again is, on one level, eye candy. The first section of the book is pure coffee table art, with high quality photos and printing displaying Kaffe’s designs to their best advantage. The setting for the photo shoot, Charleston House, was apparently something of an artists’ colony in the UK in the early 1900’s.

A great deal of attention was given to the layout and design of the book. The cover is not a paper jacket - it’s full-color photography skinned directly on the hardcover binding. I imagine this will stay good looking far longer than paper would.

At that level, this book is for anyone who loves looking at colorful, rich art. I could happily keep this book on my table and just browse through it, enjoying the great images.

As to knitters, it’s always been my contention that this stuff isn’t hard - it’s just that some variations on our craft have more steps involved than others. Kaffe’s multi-color designs count among the more involved, even in this version designed to make his projects less intimidating.

Don’t let the colors scare you! Multi-color knitting is no more complicated than making a sweater from multiple knitted pieces is. You’re just following a chart - much as you would for counted cross-stitch or needlepoint - and placing the correct color of yarn in each stitch, as instructed.

The experienced knitter will have an easier time working these designs, of course. But the adventurous beginner, who is willing to take the leap of faith and believe that she or he can do this, will find success here as well.

Clear Instructions

The instructions for the projects in Kaffe Knits Again are well written. Full measurements are given for both the body being fitted, and the sweater you’re knitting. Needles required are called out in both US and metric sizes.

Gauge instructions are quite specific as to what stitch pattern and needle size to use. The special note “To save time, take time to check gauge.” is an appropriate reminder to all of us who tend to take shortcuts. These designs might suffer badly if your gauge is off even a smidge!

I will grant you that I haven’t read the instructions line for line, cover to cover. But what I’m seeing is very detailed, very concise, with little left to the imagination of the knitter. These instructions were written by someone who wants the knitter to succeed.

Many knitters will never have worked with a Fair Isle or Intarsia chart before. Again, the instructions are very precise - at the point in the knitting where you must begin using the chart, the first two rows are usually spelled out in text for you as well, to help you establish the pattern.

The charts given are as large as practical, usually spanning a full two-page spread. Still, many of the boxes and symbols are small - it would probably be advised to photocopy and enlarge the charts for easier reference while knitting.

There is a traditional “Table of Contents,” but also, at the beginning of the “Gallery of Designs” we find this photographic index. I love books that include this feature - it makes it easy to see at a glance which design you want to jump to.

Sizes

The sweaters in this book are in the average range for most knitting patterns, with most women’s designs sized for a 36 to 40 inch chest, and men’s up to a 44 inch chest. Some of these designs have up to 5 or 6 inches of ease built in, however, so it’s worth studying the numbers carefully to see if the sweaters might work for you after all.

Some minimal information is given in the back in reference to sizing, but it speaks more to choosing the correct size for you - and not how to re-size the patterns to fit a larger or smaller body.

Yarns

All designs in this book were created for Rowan yarns, which should come as no surprise - Kaffe has worked with the company since 1981. In case you wish to make substitutions, a section at the back of the book gives full specifications for each yarn used, making it easy to match those qualities with an alternate choice.

The Best of the Best

First, I must beg some forgiveness for the quality of these photos. The pages in this book are high-quality printing, which means a high reflection factor, too. I was forced to photograph them without a flash, and the resulting images are somewhat less focused than I care for.

Mirage

I recognized the inspiration for this sweater even before I read the descriptive text - kilim carpets. I like how it’s interpreted here. The pattern could easily be adapted for a bag or cushion as well. And Kaffe makes a great model for his own designs.

Puzzle

Another pattern that I recognized, Kaffe found this graphic on a bathroom floor in an American hotel. I once had it on my floor as well, in a former apartment bathroom. Both Kaffe’s and my versions were in black and white tiles - I love this adaptation with Kaffe’s signature color style.

Gridlock Pillow

Gridlock Throw

Inspired by “an ancient carpet,” the Gridlock Pillow and Throw look refreshingly modern and vintage at the same time. I can also see re-doing this as a quilt - I wonder if Kaffe did that in any of his quilting books?

Foolish Virgins Scarf

I think this may be my favorite project in the whole book. I love that it includes a little of everything. There are the figures of the virgins, some tumbling blocks, a little woven look. And all in those rich Kaffe Fassett colors. There are seven charts used to create this masterwork - if the project as presented seems a bit intimidating, Kaffe offers a suggestion to “take any one of the seven charted patterns and…use it for a cushion cover, shawl, or throw.”

That’s a great reminder that this book is about more than just knitting the patterns as written. Knitters are encouraged to borrow, adjust, adapt, and make something other than the suggested finished project. If a whole sweater seems too much for you, take a snippet of the charted pattern and practice on a pillow first. Soon enough, you’ll be stepping up to the plate and trying the sweater itself.

Caterpillar Stripes

On the other hand, sometimes a knitter wants to dip their toe in the pool without also having to dig the hole for it themselves. As a simpler project, Kaffe offers his classic color sense in Caterpillar Stripes - an entire sweater knit with only one color on any row. Instead of a chart with a box for every stitch, the instructions for this sweater have a table listing the color of yarn to use for every row.

Some of my other favorite projects included the Houses Bag - a shoulder tote with a bold graphic of a house and checkerboard borders; the Moody Blues cushion, adapted from a sweater design; and Polka Dots, a zippered cardigan worked in white polka dots on a background of wide, vertical, pastel stripes.

Bottom Line

This could be a book for just about anyone who loves color and visual texture. Some of the designs look cute and vintage; still others look very modern. Simply changing the colors can create an entirely different look for any of these items, and Kaffe encourages that with suggestions scattered throughout.

As a large woman, the sizes clearly won’t work for me. But you know what? I don’t care - I love the patterns, I’m infatuated with the colors. I can easily see adapting some of these charts to a sweater pattern that will fit me. And then there’s always the scarves, throws, and pillows to knit. I have a feeling my Ravelry queue may become a little overloaded!

Related Links:

• Publisher’s site: Kaffe Knits Again at Random House
• Author’s site: Kaffe Fassett Studio
• Purchase at Amazon: Kaffe Knits Again

Posted: September 27th, 2007 under Crafts.
Comments: none

Suss Design Essentials by Suss Cousins

Published by: Potter Craft (Random House)

Acquired by: Free copy from Publisher

List Price: $30.00

Available: Sept. 11, 2007

Suss Cousins grew up in Sweden, and learned to knit as a child. When she became a fashion designer, it was natural that she included many pieces of knitwear in her collections. Her latest book, Suss Design Essentials, gathers the thirty patterns that Suss herself considers the best knitwear designs of her ten years in fashion.

First Things First

Let’s clear the air about one point right away - sizing. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. I’m a large woman, and if you don’t have patterns that fit my body, your book starts at a disadvantage with me.

The sweaters, tops, and dresses in Suss Design Essentials come in several sizes, but the largest tend to be about 40 inches at the chest. So for me, there would be a lot of work to re-size and re-write the patterns.

That being said, I had mixed feelings about the designs offered in this book. A number struck me as beautiful; a few as outright ugly; and one or two as impractical or ill-conceived.

Target Audience

Although a couple of patterns are fairly easy, most of them are at least a little more involved. Finishing and seaming are important elements in most designs in this book. Some patterns knit in sections might be convertible to knitting in the round, but to my eye, it appears that Suss has usually created seams that are important to the final look, fit, and drape of the garment. I’d be reluctant to change that.

In the introduction, Suss herself calls this “a book for those who have knit a sweater or two.” I’d place the average skill level required for these patterns at Intermediate and above, but I also think it would be worthy inspiration for an adventurous beginner.

Instructions

The style of presentation for the instructions supports this assessment. Materials lists are thorough, even specifying every last notion you might need while working. Gauge instructions are very precise - if you should measure while the swatch is stretched flat, Suss not only tells you that, but tells you why.

Schematics are offered for all pattern pieces, with full measurements in both metric and English.

Sizing is a bit more vague - Small, Medium, and Large, mostly, with measurements given for the finished knit, but not for the body that pattern size is expected to fit. No reference is offered for how much ease was designed into a garment.

Actual step-by-step instructions are given in a style that more experienced knitters will be able to cope with, but that beginners may need help understanding. “Bind off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows.” “Maintain cable-10 pattern when shaping armhole and shoulder.” The expectation is clearly that the knitter following these instructions has an understanding of how they go together to achieve the desired results.

I wouldn’t warn beginners away from this book completely, but I would recommend they enlist the support and aid of a more experienced knitter before committing to a project.

Yarns

In 2006, Suss Cousins released her own line of premium knitting yarns. Her own products are called for throughout this book. A full substitution guide is offered at the back, however, listing several alternative yarns by brand name for each of Suss’ own selections. And where the yarn needed is specified in the pattern, full weights and lengths are given in both metric and English measurements.

The Good

Click on any picture to view a larger version.

The designs themselves run the gamut from gorgeous, to indifferent, to outright ugly. Most of the designs I really liked had classic lines and a simple elegance.

Embroidered Dress

I so wish I had a body that could wear this dress! Alas, it looks better when your curves are concave, not convex. Maybe one day, if I can ever get the idea of dieting to work.

Button Tee

Simple raglan lines, with a whimsical detail in the buttons at side seam and sleeve. I like that the model isn’t a waif, either. I may not be able to knit the pattern as written, but I can take inspiration here and re-work it to make one my size.

Deep V-neck Cable Vest

This has a very 70’s feel to it. I like it. It’s preppy without being preppy. I like that it’s a longer, tunic-length vest - I think that’s very flattering on many figures.

Fuzzy Scarf Coat with Bell Sleeves

Suss is pretty straightforward with the names for her designs. And it works - you don’t have to wonder what this coat looks like, do you? Again, we have a design that is very 70’s in feeling. I can see myself wearing it. But then, I’m a child of the 70’s - those were my teen years. I think we always have a fondness for what we liked in our teens.

Believe It Or Not, My Favorite

Open-front Pullover

I know - it surprised me, too. This is clearly a gimmicky design, but for some reason, it resonates with me. It looks comfortable to wear, and awfully sexy.

The Bad

Let’s just say that not every design in the book was appealing to me. The bag on the top left made want to say, “I do not like it, Sam-I-Am,” even though it’s clearly not green, nor eggs, nor ham. The white shirt dress almost worked, but I felt the fabric looked a bit stiff. And then the sleeves were left so long, but with functional snaps, but which you weren’t meant to snap closed at all. Huh?

And then there’s the orange shawl. Knit on size 50 needles. I just don’t think that the results here look like anything I’d want to claim I made myself!

The Why?

Asymmetrical Buttoned Sweater

Why would one design a carefully tailored, asymmetrical, sweater, and then photograph it in such a way that you’ll never know it’s asymmetrical? Asymmetrical details can be fun, if handled correctly. But we’ll never know if Suss achieved that here, because the model is twisted and contorted until the button line - which actually goes at a slant towards her right hip - is straight up and down from our point of view. The only other photographs offered show the back - which looks absolutely symmetrical - details of the collar and button band, and one front view that doesn’t show the full length of the sweater. You get a hint of the assymetrical line of the button band from that last photo, but not the full impact.

The Final Assessment

I actually liked enough patterns in this book - and my skill level is within the range of the target audience - that if I had the body for it, I’d probably have a struggle over how many to cast on for, and how soon.

As I prepared to write this review, I did some research on the Web to bring myself up to speed on the author. I’ve learned that Suss Cousins is something of a controversial subject, with many people feeling she has an attitude that she’s God’s gift to knitting. I can see their point - many of the descriptions in Suss Design Essentials contain casual mentions of the film stars who bought this design or that, and she frequently talks about how she’s designed for movies. As she describes how luxurious the yarns are, it’s as if she were a devoted fan gushing, and not the person who designed them.

Arrogant, or showing a proper pride in her accomplishments? I wouldn’t try to judge that unless I had a chance to spend time in Suss’ company.

The overall style sense in this book is a bit retro, harking back to the 70’s and 80’s, with a hint of punk thrown in now and again. Many commenters I found on the Web call her unoriginal - I felt that she brought her own perspective to the styles she chose, adding details that made them different from what came before.

Bottom line - not all designers, books, or patterns are for all people. I liked what I saw in this book. Others may have an issue with how she presents herself. Me - I’m content to enjoy her talents as a fashion knit designer, and to consider creating some sweaters in a Suss-like style for my goddess-size body.

Related Links:

• Publisher’s site: Suss Design Essentials at Random House
• Author’s site: Suss Designs
• Purchase at Amazon: Suss Design Essentials

I won’t link to any of the anti-Suss sites I found. That would just be spreading negative gossip, without having any knowledge of where the truth actually lies. If you really insist on seeing it, just Google Suss’ name.

Posted: September 12th, 2007 under Crafts.
Comments: 1

The following review is edited and re-published from a post that originally appeared at Crafting Jen on August 24, 2007.

The Yarn Girls’ Guide to Knits for All Seasons
by July Carles and Jordana Jacobs
Acquired by: Complimentary offer from publisher

The other book I’ve been sent a review copy of recently is The Yarn Girls’ Guide to Knits for All Seasons, by Julie Carles and Jordana Jacobs.

I have heard of the Yarn Girls before, but this is my first exposure to their books. As I understand them, their designs are targeted at new knitters, with each book introducing somewhat more ambitious projects than those before.

Knits for All Seasons contains a lot of classic designs. Nothing here is going to turn the fashion world on its head, but there are many timeless styles that you can knit today, and still wear in twenty years. Or keep the book around, and knit them twenty years from now.

What doesn’t work

Of course, this only works if the patterns fit you, or if you’re skilled enough to size them up. I mentioned yesterday that I am a large sized woman. Clearly, Knits for All Seasons didn’t have me in mind when creating their patterns - most of the women’s garments only knit to 42″ or less at the chest. When you consider that’s the finished measurement of the garment, and you must allow for ease as well….we’re talking about projects that, at best, I would have to size up by over fifty percent to wear. Might as well design my own from scratch at that point!

Of course, you can only figure out those measurements by taking the one number they give you - the finished width of the garment at the chest, not the circumference of the chest - and doubling it. Why, if you’re a book for less experienced knitters, would you require that your readers take that extra step? No pattern tells you what real body bust measurements each size is intended for, and in fact, the only size references given are XS, S, M, and L for women, and S, M, L, and XL for men.

Yarns for each pattern are specified by brand, which is good. But what if you want to make substitutions - or are forced to because your LYS doesn’t carry a yarn, or because it’s discontinued? No guidance other than gauge is given for the weight of the yarns needed, and in many cases the yarns are knit doubled, which would have to be accounted for in estimating the weight used. I searched the introduction, and couldn’t even find a suggestion that you ask your LYS owner or an experienced knitting friend for help with substituting yarns.

While the instructions are generally okay, there are places where the reader is left hanging. Zippered cardigans have good finishing instructions (with good step-by-step illustrations in the back of the book), but then end with a simple statement to “Sew in zipper.” No suggestions about how and where to place the zipper in relationship to the edge of the sweater front. No help regarding what thread to sew it in with, or a preferred stitch to use.

What does work

Each pattern has a schematic drawing of the main pieces, showing all the important measurements - an essential guide to making sure the piece you’re knitting meets the expectations of the pattern. As for putting your sweaters together, there’s a well-illustrated, step-by-step guide in the Finishing Techniques section at the back which covers most of the needed procedures. (Sadly, though, not sewing in zippers.)

The garments are all photographed on real people, and those photos are clearly unretouched - freckles and imperfections on the models are all intact. Some of the garments fit the models better than others - there is at least one sweater where you can see the model’s chest was a bit larger than the size knit, and the sweater pulls and stretches badly at the corners of the v-neck. Mostly, however, the sweaters look reasonably good, if sometimes a little frumpy, on the bodies wearing them.

All that being said, there are, as I mentioned before, many designs that will stay classic for years. Here are some of my favorites:

Nancy’s Knit

This is the very first project in the book, in the Spring section. The yarn is Alchemy Synchronicity, a 50/50 silk/wool blend. The color they chose, Waterlily, may be my reason for liking this one, at least as much as the 3/4 sleeves, the diagonal rib, and the boat neck. The only shaping required is for the set-in sleeves, which would make this an easy knit for a beginner.

Suzanne’s Bright Idea

This may be the cutest pattern in the whole book. Found, of course, in the Summer section, this great little dress is knit from Tahki Dream, an 80/20 wool/nylon blend, held doubled. Minimal shaping makes it an easy knit, and the contrasting hem is even folded to the inside to give a more finished look, and a little weight for better drape.

Olivia’s Sweatshirt

This actually struck me as a good, attractive, yet functional garment. The yarn is Crystal Palace Merino Frappe. There are lined pockets, and a hood. Minimal shaping again, only the set-in sleeves. Still an easy knit, just more pieces to make. I can see this becoming a comfy, everyday jacket.

The Catwalk Cable

Preppy style all the way! I think this may have been a little large for the model - what looks like drop shoulders are actually set-in sleeves, suggesting the shoulders of the sweater are a little too broad for the girl wearing it. Otherwise, there’s a lot of nice texture, and though there are three types of cables, they’re all of the simple rope variety - just crossed in different directions and widths.

Other Projects

There are 8 sweaters for men in this book as well. Some of them are nice, comfy-looking, bumming around types. None of them stood out to me as “nice enough to wear to the office on Casual Friday,” however. And I felt all were a bit lacking in imagination when it came to colors and textures.

There are also 8 different accessory projects. None of them impressed me much - one was a garter-stitch belt so simple, the instructions were nothing more than how many stitches to cast on, and a directive to knit to the desired length. Oh, and how to add fringe to each end. Your mileage may vary, of course - there is a beach tote in the Summer section that almost twinges my knitting fingers, but not quite.

All things considered

The Yarn Girls’ Guide to Knits for All Seasons is a flawed book, and may trip up the apparently intended audience of less experienced knitters. On the other hand, if readers can remember to ask for help from a more experienced knitter if they need it, there are many classic designs here that can be worn - and knitted - for years to come.

Keep in mind the sizing, though. This is not for the zaftig, or even the reubenesque. If you’re among the fortunate who have kept their size down, or if you often knit for teenage girls, this book may be worth picking up, but if you or your target recipient is built like the Venus of Willendorf, as I am, I’d pass it by.

I really wanted to like this book more than I do. I’m just not who it’s meant for.

Related Links:

• Publisher’s site: Random House
• Author’s Website: the yarn co.
• Purchase at Amazon: The Yarn Girls’ Guide to Knits for All Seasons

Posted: September 3rd, 2007 under Crafts.
Comments: 1